Brief Summary of Minutes of Annual Meeting

Welcome and Introductions

• Meeting called in session at 8:45 am by Scarlett Wesley after a welcome by Laura Druck at the Lincoln Experience Center.
• Membership update:
• Jana Hawley will not be a part of the group anymore
• Jaeha Lee from NDSU will not be a part of the group anymore
• Juanjuan will check with Sri and Cynthia to find out whether they’d continue their memberships with the group (follow-up emails confirmed that both will continue)
• Elena accepted a position at UNCG. Eulanda Sanders will join the group to represent ISU. Elena intends to continue with the group and will email by the end of Nov. to confirm her membership
• Discussion of additional members to add to the group and qualification
• Ting mentioned the NCCC65 group to colleague from CAL State U at Pomona at the ITAA and asked about qualification.
• Missy clarified that not just professors from land-grant universities are qualified. Faculty members with some level of seniority are especially encouraged to join. As NCCC65 is a coordinating committee instead of a research group its membership is intended to attract more experienced faculty members to lead and support young faculty.
• The group will create a phone texting group contact for communication during meeting time.

Approval of 2017 Meeting minutes

Elena moved to approve the minutes as submitted. JuanJuan seconded the motion. Minutes were approved as submitted unanimously.

OLD BUSINESS

• Updates on NCCC065 sponsored initiatives 2018-2019
• ITAA workshop (Sonali): Combined the session with a similar session on external grants. The workshop was a success. There were 50 Participants. 8 or 10 people provide feedback. Created best practices hand out. There was some issue relating to scheduling conflict at the ITAA. One of the panelists Brad came on college funding. Perhaps that’s a strategy to go. Sonali will send the impact report.

• Fashion and Active Aging joint symposium at U of MN (Juan): Partnered with Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts and co-sponsored by the China Center at UMN. 47 presentations (including 8 panelists and 2 keynote speakers), 4 design series displayed, and 26 posters representing approx. 25 universities and research centers from the US, China, Canada, Australia, and Korea. As a NCCC65 initiative, Pam organized a panel on Active Aging and Fashion, which included four panelists from Iowa Sate University, West Virginia University, University of Missouri, and University of Minnesota and presented on topics ranging from body image, technical design, to links between interior design and fashion.

• SYMPOSIUM announcement: “Fashion and…”

– Missy announced that UMN is looking for schools to host symposiums on various topics under this brand name. The next one will be on Fashion and Freaks and Monsters in Hawaii (CFP sent out by the ITAA). Sonali suggested fashion and circular economy for 2021 and will be in contact for the possibility of hosting it.

• Update on The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions

• Elena shared the topics covered in the book and that the book is at its final stage of proofreading. Ideas and offers of expanding the impact of the book is shared, such as zooming in authors to discuss their chapters in classrooms, renting digital copies, keeping high school students as an audience in mind, and reaching out intentionally for a broader audience, etc.
• Iva inquired about using the book for a sustainable merchandising course.
• Sonali and Jill are working on a book review together for Fashion Practice.
• Authors suggested at the ITAA: Each author could make a video on their topics.

• Update on the Fashion and Sustainability conference in London: Kate Fletcher gave a fabulous keynote speech. Elena only buys second hand since August for a year. Iva is also trying. They shared personal experiences of consuming second-hand clothing. Elena, Iva, Jill, and Juan will work together on a research project focusing on wardrobe swapping.

NEW BUSINESS

Reports/Issues/Plans

• Brief discussions on the cluster concepts, whether we need to continue with these. Overall, the committee agrees that these are broad umbrellas established in our current proposal. A different direction could be reflected in our new proposal.
• Directions of this group: To shift away from the strong sustainability focus. But more on what is driving the economy. How do we bring our experiences to the bigger group? Inspirational business: Zappos: adaptive service to their consumers.
• As part of an ongoing discussion the group discussed our impact, our ROI as a group, and the possibilities of switching the group into a research group or dissolving the group. Available funding is a pro for continuing the group. (in follow-up email communications Elena raised concerns over switching the group into a research group due to our research interest alignment and output expectations. Juanjuan and Ting responded that staying as a coordinating committee could give us more flexibility in what we do).
• Missy raised concerns of the position of our group in relation to the industry: We need to lead the direction instead of lagging behind the industry. Juan added that the field as a whole lags behind the industry. How could we work better with the industry to serve a leading role? Iva shared her experiences of not being able to develop as a researcher without reach outing to the industry. As a coordinating committee we need to stay ahead of the industry. Business is profit driven and thus is also limited in that way.
• Sonali mentioned USDA: Hedge Umbrella funding available.

CLUSTER REPORTS:

• Sustainable Consumption and Production cluster: Iva, Jana, Sonali. Report by Sonali: Plan to submit an ITAA session based on a literature review of trends on this cluster. A USDA Higher Education Challenge grant was submitted in May by Melody and Sonali.

• Demographic Driven Marketplace cluster: Pam and Scarlett. Pam organized an Active Aging and Fashion panel at the Fashion and Active Aging joint symposium at the U of MN.

• Technology cluster: Juanjuan, Ting, and Sri. By Ting and Juanjuan: Ting and Juanjuan both made research presentations with graduate students focusing on tech aspect of textiles or use of new tech, such as VR. Ting is working with Hang Liu to secure patent for recycling material (to reduce it to polymer level).

ADVISOR REPORT – Missy Bye

• The project was funded through the end of 2021. The renew proposal is due in Feb. 2021.
• To have speakers from NIFA for our next annual meeting. Not much going on currently in NIFA. USDA lost employees because of moving to Kansas City. Potential to connect with USDA, Kansas City is a possible meeting cite.

Discussion of Action Item:

• ITAA workshop submission “Creating a data-driven experiential ecosystem in a disruptive marketplace”

Utilize RoadMapping as a workshop format. Plan for the day of the ITAA reception for the workshop. (Elena, Scarlett, and Juan will lead to develop the abstract. (Due Feb. 1^st, Possibility of zooming the speaker in) (In a follow up email Missy suggested not to bound to the ITAA)

NEXT YEAR MEETING

• Kansas City – to have a NIFA representative to come to the meeting.
• Work together on our new direction

• IMPACT STATEMENTS REPORT

  1. ITAA-2019 special topic session – Sonali will compile an impact report
  2. Fashion and Active Aging join symposium – JuanJuan will compile an impact report
  3. Dangers of Fashion book – Elena prepare an impact report?

Accomplishment and Impact Report (formerly station reports)

The report:

• Is not about what everyone is doing individually; only include things that are done as a group
• Must report accomplishments and impact – those are the only things required
• Not required to put individual publications
• May want to do a monograph about what we do
• Must directly relate to our objectives

Leadership

1. 2019-2020
   1. Chair: Scarlett Wesley
   2. Vice-Chair: Elena Karpova
   3. Secretary: Juanjuan Wu

CAMPUS UPDATES

University of Minnesota

University of Kentucky

Iowa State University

Mississippi State University

Washington State University

University of North Texas University

Colorado State University

Business meeting was adjourned at 12:00 pm.

• ITAA Special Topics Session – Partnering with Interdisciplinary Researchers

Combined the session with a similar session on external grants. The workshop was a success. There were 50+ Participants. 8 or 10 people provide feedback. Created best practices hand out. There were five panel participants from different universitites including Kansas State, University of Missouri, Iowa State, and University of Minnesota. Panel spoke on various issues of conducting interdisciplinary research and audience asked questions.

• Fashion and Active Aging joint symposium

The Fashion and Active Aging Symposium is an international collaboration between the College of Design at the University of Minnesota and Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts, addressing the demographic thrust identified by the NCCC65. The symposium included 47 presentations (including 8 panelists and 2 keynote speakers), 4 design series displayed, and 26 posters representing approx. 25 universities and research centers from the US, China, Canada, Australia, and Korea. As a NCCC65 initiative, Pam organized a panel on Active Aging and Fashion, which included four panelists from Iowa Sate University, West Virginia University, University of Missouri, and University of Minnesota and presented on topics ranging from body image, technical design, to links between interior design and fashion. Feedback and evaluation from the symposium participants indicate that the symposium had a great impact on their knowledge, understanding, and passion about aging issues with relation to fashion and design.

• Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions

EDITED BOOK

Marcketti, S. & Karpova, E. (2020). The Dangers of Fashion: Toward Ethical and Sustainable Solutions. Ed. London, UK: Bloomsbury.

• Fifteen-chapter, edited book
• Twenty textile and apparel experts contributed to the volume
• Covers the entire textile and apparel product lifecycle from design and manufacturing to distribution, retail, consumption and disposal
• https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/the-dangers-of-fashion-9781350052055/

Chapter Contributors who are NCCC065 members:

• Sustainability [Must] Drive Fashion Design. Bye, E.
• Fashion: An Unrecognized Contributor to the Climate Change. Hiller, K. & LeHew, M.
• Domestic vs. offshore sourcing. Chi,
• Disposing Fashion: From the Ugly… Hawley, J. & Karpova,
• Disposing Fashion 2: ….To the Good. E. & Hawley, J.

Impact: This ground-breaking volume provides a framework for examining the ethical and environmental dangers that arise as fashion products are designed, manufactured, distributed and sold within retail outlets, consumed, and then disposed of. Through a wide range of chapters including international case studies written by expert scholars, chapters analyze fashion’s negative consequences for individuals, companies, societies and the global community. This is the first volume to examine the dangerous aspects of the fashion industry across the full life cycle, from design to consumption and disposal.

Table of Contents

PART 1 – Moral and Ethical Dangers in Fashion

            Chapter 1. Introduction: Exploring the Dangerous Side of Fashion. S. Marcketti & E.        Karpova

Chapter 2. Moral Dilemmas in Fashion. J. Ha-Brookshire

Chapter 3. Sustainability [Must] Drive Fashion Design. E. Bye

Chapter 4. Fibers and Materials: What is Fashion Made of? H. Cao

Chapter 5. Stealing Fashion Designs. S. Marcketti

PART 2 – The Dangers of Making Fashion

Chapter 6. Fashion: An Unrecognized Contributor to the Climate Change.  K. Hiller & M. LeHew

Chapter 7. Domestic vs. offshore sourcing. T. Chi  & S. Lu

Chapter 8. A Look at Labor Issues in Manufacture of Apparel through the Perspective of Human Trafficking and Modern-Day Slavery. H Warren & M. Dickson

Chapter 9. Exodus to Elsewhere: Exploring the Effects of Fashion Industry Globalization on Local Communities. N. Hodges

PART 3 – The Dangers of Consuming Fashion

Chapter 10. Taking offense: A discussion of fashion, appropriation, and cultural insensitivity. D. Green & S. Kaiser 

Chapter 11. Striving to Fit In. K. Reddy-Best

Chapter 12. Pain in Fashion. E. McKinney & E. Sanders

PART 4 – The Dangers of Caring for and Disposing Fashion

Chapter 13. A Consumer Perspective on Clothing Care: Economic, Environmental and Social Costs. P. Norum & R. Lomonaco-Benzing

Chapter 14. Disposing Fashion 1: From the Ugly… J. Hawley & E. Karpova

Chapter 15. Disposing Fashion 2: ….To the Good. J. Hawley & E. Karpova

Chapter 16. Conclusion: Creative Solutions to the Dangers of Fashion. E. Karpova & S. Marcketti

Special Topic Session at an international conference – Exploring solutions to the dangers of fashion.

Marcketti, S. & Karpova, E. (2019). Exploring solutions to the dangers of fashion. Special Topic Session, Coordinator and Presenter. Sustainability in Fashion, Regents University London and ITAA Joint Conference, July 30-August 1, 2019. London, UK.

Four NCCC065 members presented at the panel:

• Pam Norum, University of Missouri – Columbia
• Jana Hawley, University of North Texas
• Missy Bye, University of Minnesota
• Elena Karpova, Iowa State University

Impact: Panel of experts discussed environmental and social impacts of fashion industry and brainstormed various solutions with the session’s attendees at the international conference. Special attention was devoted to discussing recent industry and market examples and innovative solutions to the dangers of fashion. Interactive discussion utilizing creative thinking techniques with the participants followed the panel. Attendees of this international conference, educators and industry professionals from around the world, were provided with original ideas and resources to make the fashion, textile and apparel industry more sustainable.

Jestratijevic, I., Rudd, N.A & Uanhoro, J. Transparency of sustainability disclosures among luxury and mass-market fashion brands. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing. (accepted for publication 12/12/2019)

Cavender R, Howell A, Hillery J, Paulins A, Jestratijevic, I. Exploring Consumers’  Understanding and Evaluation of their Ethical Consumption and Disposition. Journal of Textile Science and Fashion Technology. DOI. 10.33552/JTSFT.2019.02.000536

Hawley, J. M. (2019). Right-Sized Consumption: Should Doughnut Economics Inform the Textile and Apparel Industry?  International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Meeting. Las Vegas, NV.

Crutsinger, C. and Hawley, J.M. (2019). Future Proofing your Program. International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Meeting. Las Vegas, NV.

Marcketti, S., Karpova, E., Brookshire, J., Bye, E., Hawley, J. LeHew, M. and Norum, P. (2019, July).  Exploring Solutions to the Dangers of Fashion. Panel Presentation at the Sustainable Fashion Conference, London, UK. 

Reilly, A. and Hawley, J.M. (2019). Attention deficit fashion. Fashion, Style, and Popular culture 6(1), p. 83-96.  Doi: 10.1386/fspc.6.1.83_1

Co-Chair, Sustainable Fashion.  ITAA/Regents University. July 27-Aug 1, 2019.

Chi, T., Gerard, J., Dephillips, A., Liu, H., & Sun, J. (2019). Why U.S. consumers buy sustainable cotton made collegiate apparel? a study of the key determinants. Sustainability, 11(11), 1-15.

Chi, T. & Lu, S. (2019). Fashion Supply Chain Sustainability: Offshore vs. Domestic Sourcing. Included in Book “The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions” Bloomsbury/Fairchild.

Ganak, J., Summers, L., Tai, Y., Adesanya, O., & Chi, T. (2019). The Future of Fashion Sustainability: A Qualitative Study on U.S. Female Millennials' Purchase Intention towards Sustainable Synthetic Athleisure Apparel. 2019 International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) annual meeting, Las Vegas, NV, October 26-29, 2019.

Gerard, J., Warren, C., Yu, Y., Wang, Y., & Chi, T. (2019). A Study of Key Factors Influencing U.S. Consumers' Intent to Purchase Slow Fashion Products. 2019 International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) annual meeting, Las Vegas, NV, October 26-29, 2019.

Anderson, R., Nelson, A., Zhao, Z., Liang, D. & Chi, T. (2019). Understanding U.S. Millennials’ Intention to Donate Used Clothing: A Study of the Key Determinants. 2019 International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) annual meeting, Las Vegas, NV, October 26-29, 2019.

Chi, T., Chen, K., & Marsh, T. (2019). A Life Cycle Assessment of Biodegradable Mulches Application in Crop Production. Agricultural & Applied Economics Association (AAEA) Annual Meeting, Atlanta GA, July 21-23, 2019.

McCoy, L., Alley, A., Wang, T. Y., Wang, C.H. & Chi, T. (2019). Sustainability Reporting and Transparency: A Content Analysis of Leading Apparel Companies. 2019 SFTI-WSU meeting, Seattle, WA, July 15-18, 2019.

Ganak, J., Chen, Y., Liang, D., Liu, H. & Chi, T. (2019). U.S. consumers’ perceived value of apparel recycling services: insights for brands and retailers. 2019 Global Fashion Management Conference at Paris, Paris, France, July 11-14, 2019. 

Son, J., Niehm, L., & Lee, J. (2019). Assessing the social media needs and barriers of small rural