Brief Summary of Minutes of Annual Meeting

1. NCCC065 – Annual Meeting Minutes

Embassy Suites, 3303 S Pinnacle Hills Parkway, Rogers, AR  72758

Sunday, October 8, 7:30 – 9:30 pm

In attendance:

1. Elizabeth (Missy) Bye, Project Advisor
2. Jana Hawley, University of Arizona
3. Scarlett Wesley, University of Kentucky
4. Melody LeHew, Kansas State University
5. Pam Norum, University of Missouri – Columbia
6. Jane Hegland, South Dakota State University
7. JuanJuan Wu, University of Minnesota
8. Sonali Diddi, Colorado State University
9. Ting Chi, Washington State University
10. Srikant Manchiraju, Florida State University

Welcome and Introductions

Meeting called in session at 7:30 pm by Jana Hawley. All attendees introduced themselves.

Updates

Each attendee provided a 3-5 minute trends report to update about what is going on at their departments, colleges, and universities.

Business meeting was adjourned at 9:30 pm.

Monday, October 9, 7:30 – 11:30 am

In attendance:

1. Elizabeth (Missy) Bye, Project Advisor
2. Jana Hawley, University of Arizona
3. Scarlett Wesley, University of Kentucky
4. Melody LeHew, Kansas State University
5. Pam Norum, University of Missouri - Columbia
6. Jane Hegland, South Dakota State University
7. JuanJuan Wu, University of Minnesota
8. Sonali Diddi, Colorado State University
9. Ting Chi, Washington State University
10. Srikant Manchiraju, Florida State University
11. Juyoung Lee, Mississippi State University
12. Elena Karpova, Iowa State University
13. Special Guest – Lauri Apple, University of Arkansas

Welcome and Introductions

Meeting called in session at 7:30 am by Jana Hawley. All attendees introduced themselves. Laurie Apple attended as a guest, she is considering joining the group. She was instrumental in connecting the group with Walmart.

Announcements

Jana provided an overview of Walmart schedule for Monday afternoon and Tuesday. If any committee needs to meet, they can do it in the evening.

Scarlett announced meeting registration cost and individual payment was calculated (total room cost divided by the number of participants). Vice-Chair Scarlett Wesley made arrangements for paying the room rental fee. The registration fee $31.85 per member. Checks made out to University of Kentucky. Receipts were disbursed.

Update contact information of the group members. Jana asked about Jaeha Lee – her emails bounced back. Elena will contact Jaeha Lee to find out if she would like to continue to be a part of this group.

Approval of 2016 meeting minutes

Melody moved to approve the minutes as is. Elena seconded. Minutes were approved as submitted.

Accomplishment and Impact Report (formerly station reports)

Missy commented on the new format of the report and what should be included. The main body of the report is how this group collaborates; the sub-teams’ reports (clusters) focus on how they involve others (being catalysts).

The report:

• Is not about what everyone is doing individually; only include things that are done as a group
• Must report accomplishments and impact – those are the only things required
• Not required to put individual publications
• May want to do a monograph about what we do
• Must directly relate to our objectives
• Station reports are not needed

Old Business - Reports/Issues

Updates on NCCC065 sponsored initiatives 2016-2017

1. ITAA sessions
   1. Jana Hawley—Special topic session “Insiders perspective on Getting Federal Funding” was presented at the 2016 ITAA conference in Vancouver, BC, November 2016.
   2. Elena Karpova—a survey was conducted with the session attendees. The survey results will be included in the Report as an appendix.
   3. Jana, ITAA St. Petersburg—Accepted: Writing Impact Statements. Need to develop plans for the session.

1. Cluster Initiative Reports
   1. Committee (cluster) reports required for reporting.
   2. The three cluster sub-committees will write their reports to be included as appendices for the main report.
   3. Jana noted that we need to frame outcomes/objectives for each of the three clusters, including description, benefits, and action plans. Each cluster’s leaders will draft these points.

• Pam, Scarlett, & Jill will take the lead on the Demographic Driven Marketplace.
• JuanJuan, Ting & Sri will work on the Innovation and Technology Change cluster.
• Melody, Sonali, and Jana will work on the Sustainability and Climate Change cluster.

New Business – Reports/Issues/Plans

1. Discussion of presentations for the next ITAA or other organizations’ meetings:
2. Discussion of a resilience topic and how to connect it to the three grand challenges.
3. Sonali suggested to have next ITAA session as a recruitment for people to join/work on the three clusters, with potential funding application.
4. Melody and Sonali will lead framing the next special topic session submission “Importance of networking and grand challenges.” Melody will focus on community resilience piece, which will be an umbrella for the entire session.
5. Sonali suggested another session for ITAA 2018 meeting on transdisciplinary collaboration. Jana suggested to have it as a seminar session. Possible to have it as a panel, with breakdown into small groups or individual barnstorming sessions.

1. Discussion of the group’s role – moving to a more proactive mode of reaching out to researchers, educators, etc.
   1. Melody recommended the course “Thinking resilience” [?] that she has recently completed and will email information to the group.
   2. Melody, Pam, and Elena work on multi-university USDA grant submission with a larger group. Proposal will be submitted in Spring 2018, focus on moral decisions education development.
   3. Jana suggested NHI as potential funding agency for transgender needs in terms of appearance management.

• Melody’s proposal for organizing a new research group:

1. Formed a research group consisting of Sonali, Jill and Melody to focus on resilience.
2. Melody created a NCCC1030 “Sustainable Firms and Communities” local project focusing on entrepreneurs and small business owners and helping communities.
3. To form a 1030 local project, Melody had to select one of the objectives of the larger project to focus. She could to it independently or create a small group of collaborators.

1. Discussion of the next year’s meeting.
   1. Consensus was not to combine it with ITAA due to several members’ involvement with ITAA Council or TAPAC.
2. Sonali suggested to visit Dillard’s headquarters in Phoenix.
3. Jana suggested Amazon and PetSmart that are also in Phoenix.
4. Missy suggested to have an expert to do a session on resilience.
5. Melody will check with Post Carbon Institute.

1. Discussion of leadership roles:
2. Jana will be the group’s Chair for the next year and prepare the next meeting. Scarlett will remain Vice-Chair and Elena – secretary. At the 2018 meeting, a new secretary will be elected. Scarlett will become Chair, and Elena will assume Vice-Chair responsibilities.
3. Leadership change will happen following the group’s annual meeting in October.

Business meeting was adjourned at 11:30 am for lunch and visit Walmart.

On Monday, October 9, afternoon, and all Tuesday, October 10, the group visited Walmart regional headquarters and distribution center to learn about the company’s sustainability strategies and accommodating the changing social landscape and consumer market.

Leadership

1. 2017-2018
   1. Chair: Jana Hawley
   2. Vice-Chair: Scarlet Wesley
   3. Secretary: Elena Karpova
   4. Information manager: Sonali Diddi
2. 2018-2019 & 2019-2020 (after the annual meeting)
   1. Chair: Scarlett Wesley
   2. Vice-Chair: Elena Karpova
   3. Secretary: TBD
   4. Information manager: TBD-IM1(2018-19) (elect new IM at 2018 meeting)/TBD-IM2 (2019-20)

1. Completed Activities and Accomplishments

• The Nuances of Federal Grant Writing
  
  

Hawley, J. M., Ellis, J., Wesley, S., LeHew, M., Damhorst, M., Jasper, C., Hegland, J., Wu, J., and Bye, E. (November, 2016). Nuances of federal grant writing. Panelists: Chattarman, V., Ha-Brookshire, J., Karpova, E., LeHew, M. The Nuances of Federal Grant Writing. Special Topics session, 2017 International Textile and Apparel Association conference, Vancouver, BC.

Impact:  This special topic session was held at the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association in Vancouver, BC. Grant writing has become the new normal expectation for university research funding. At the same time, researchers encounter increasingly fierce competition for these limited, historically low, funds. The new reality for grant seeking seems bleak in that there exist low funding rates, constrained university budgets, and the need for universities to remain the center for research and economic development.   However, with a better understanding of the process the new normal need not be so bleak. 

The purpose of this session was to shed insights on the federal grants programs.  This special topic session provides an insider’s perspective on the nuances of federal grant writing, projections for future funding, and a vision for charting the future.  The session began with a live video cast from Robbin Shoemaker, National Program Leader for Economics, National Institute of Food and Agriculture, USDA.  Following Shoemaker’s talk, we will convene a panel of members of the NCCC065 group and other ITAA members, along with Robin Shoemaker. The panel discussed grant-related topics such as understanding the nuances of the RFP, matching your ideas to the RFP, forming interdisciplinary collaborations, working with your campus office of research and the agency program director, budget development, professional standards and ethics, review process, solicitation from industry, the value of a grant writer, grant management, finding international collaborators, and reporting. The proposal coordinators moderated the NCCC065 initiative.

Outcomes:  Thirty-five professors, administrators, and graduate students from more than 23 universities across the country attended the special topic session. The list of universities is included in Appendix A. Majority (72%) had some experience with submitting/securing intramural or extramural funding, whereas nine attendees (25%) had no prior grant experience. Most of the attendees (86%) found the workshop “useful” or “very useful” and planned to use what they learned in the future, when writing proposals, finding collaborators, managing grants, etc.

Examples of anonymous participants’ comments:

“[session provided] step-wise guidance for international collaboration and/or international grants. Thank you for informative session.”

“Excellent session, great key points from panelist.”

“Great panel discussion, very useful!”

“Thank you for inspiring that our discipline can do it and be funded.”

• Exploring Issues and Impacts of Post-Consumer Textile Waste

Yan, T., Hawley, J. M., Chapron, Li, Diddi, S. (November, 2016) Where did your jeans go?  Exploring issues and impacts of post-consumer textile waste.  Special Topics session. 2017 International Textile and Apparel Association conference, Vancouver, BC

Impact: This special topic session provided a platform for educators in the field (1) to understand the scope of the issue in relation to post-consumer textile wastes and challenges faced by the textile recycling industry, and (2) to discuss ways to increase awareness through education, and (3) to identify potential research ideas and collaboration projects among members. Ultimately, the session was a forum where apparel and textile academicians and professionals came together to discuss and develop teaching and learning related projects that would assist in student education and the need to minimize post-consumer textile wastes.

• Development of Case Studies for Morally Responsible Agricultural Product Supply Chain Education.

Ha-Brookshire, J., Freeman, C., Kim, J., McAndrews, L., Norum, P., Jin, B., Karpova, E., LeHew, M., Marcketti, S. (2016-2017). Development of Case Studies for Morally Responsible Agricultural Product Supply Chain Education (MoRAPSCE). National Institute of Food and Agriculture: Higher Education Challenge Grants Program. $30,000.

Impact: The project brought together nine educators/researchers from six US universities: University of Missouri-Columbia, Iowa State University, University of North Carolina – Greensboro, University of Georgia, Mississippi State University, and Kansas State University. The group explored morally challenging cases in the food, agricultural, natural resources, and human (FANH) related disciplines and consulted industry professionals. The goal was to prepare and submit a NIFA multi-year grant proposal. The overall goal of the project is to increase students’ multiple-perspective problem-solving and decision making skills with enhanced moral cognition, moral affect, and moral behavior. These skill sets will make them more industry- and change-ready, feeling empowered to make meaningful impacts on the world’s sustainable development as future professionals.

Outcomes:

The outcomes of the project were published in open access Sustainability journal:

Ha-Brookshire, J., McAndrews, L., Kim, J., Freeman, C., Jin, B., Norum, P., LeHew, M., Hassal, L., Karpova, E., & Marcketti, S. (2017). Exploration of morally challenging business situations within the context of corporate sustainability in the global textile and apparel industry. Sustainability, 9, 1-17. doi:10.3390/su909164

The journal’s five-year impact factor = 1.85 (2016); H Index = 35 (2017).

The authors explored a set of real-life business situations where business professionals experienced morally challenging dilemmas. The real-life business situations were interpreted using Kohlberg’s moral development theory. The results of in-depth individual interviews followed by three focus groups of industry professionals in spring 2017 showed that participants have experienced a variety of morally challenging business situations throughout their careers. This includes simple problems at the individual and firm levels, as well as wicked and complex problems at the industry and global levels. The study shows the need for moral development education.

1. Activities and Accomplishments in Progress

• The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions

Marcketti, S. & Karpova. E. (In Progress). The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions. Ed. London, UK: Bloomsbury.

The edited book, consisting of 15 chapters, brings together prominent scholars to address social and sustainability issues related to fashion and consumption (see Appendix B for Table of Content).

Chapter Contributors:

• Sustainability [Must] Drive Fashion Design. Bye, E.
• Fashion: An Unrecognized Contributor to the Climate Change. Hiller, K. & LeHew, M.
• Domestic vs. offshore sourcing. Chi,
• Fashion [Over]Consumption. Manchiraju, S. & Diddi, S.
• Disposing Fashion: From the Ugly… Hawley, J. & Karpova,
• Disposing Fashion 2: ….To the Good. E. & Hawley, J.

Impact: This ground-breaking volume provides a framework for examining the ethical and environmental dangers that arise as fashion products are designed, manufactured, distributed and sold within retail outlets, consumed, and then disposed of. Through a wide range of chapters including international case studies written by expert scholars, chapters analyze fashion’s negative consequences for individuals, companies, societies and the global community. This is the first volume to examine the dangerous aspects of the fashion industry across the full life cycle, from design to consumption and disposal.

• Hawley, J., Hegland, J., Diddi, S., & Karpova, E. (Accepted). The Power of Impact Statements: What, Why, Who and How Special Topic Session.Coordinator: Jana M. Hawley, University of Arizona

Impact: The session will help participants to: (1) establish awareness and understanding of impact statements and their application in academics, (2) explore the reasons why impact statements should be a consistent practice implemented throughout our career, (3) to investigate who the various audiences are, and (4) highlight how powerful impact statements are written for stakeholders. Attendees will be guided through several scenarios and exercises to practice formulating precise and powerful impact statements as a group. The session will end with an opportunity for each of the attendees to write individual impact statements that contain the necessary components of a powerful impact statement.

Additional NCCC065 Members to assist with Peer Mentoring: Melody Lehew, Kansas State University; Srikantsharma Manchiraju, Florida State University; Elizabeth Bye, University of Minnesota; Scarlett Wesley, University of Kentucky; JuanJuan Wu, University of Minnesota; Cynthia Jasper, University of Wisconsin; Jill Lee, Mississippi State University; and Ting Chi, Washington State University

• Hawley, J.M., Cassill, N. and McGowan, K. (Accepted). The Future of Luxury. Seminar session for the annual meeting of the International Textile and Apparel Association, St. Petersburg, FL.

Impact:  The luxury market is changing.  This is impacted by a variety of factors that cut across design and craftsmanship, technology, economics, culture, marketing, demographic shifts, and concerns for the environment, to name a few. Historically, the luxury industry focused on the affluent market, but in the last decade a “new normal” (D’Arpizio, Levato, Zito, and Motgolfier, 2015, p. 5) has emerged where luxury companies must pay attention to a multitude of changes in the marketplace that impact who their target customer is and how they will produce product. We have designed this session to inspire a cross-disciplinary and critical discussion on the topic of the future of luxury.  Strategies from Harvard’s ProjectZero/Visible Thinking will be used to inspire group thinking.  A digital monograph of white papers has been proposed.

Additional NCCC065 members who will participate include Laurie Apple, University of Arkansas.

Appendix A

List of Universities

Attendees of “Nuances of Federal Grant Writing” special topic session were from the following universities:

1. Auburn University
2. Florida State University
3. Framingham University
4. Iowa State University
5. Kent State University
6. Meredith College
7. Mississippi State University
8. Montclair State University
9. North Carolina State University (4 people)
10. Oklahoma State University
11. University of Alabama
12. University of Cincinnati (2 people)
13. University of Delaware
14. University of Minnesota
15. University of Missouri - Columbia
16. University of Nebraska (2 people)
17. University of North Carolina - Greensboro
18. University of Rhode Island 
19. University of South Carolina
20. University of Tennessee
21. Washington State University
22. Western Michigan University

Eight participants did not indicate university affiliation.

Appendix B

The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions

Table of Contents

PART 1 – Moral and Ethical Dangers in Fashion

            Chapter 1. Introduction: Exploring the Dangerous Side of Fashion. S. Marcketti & E.     Karpova

Chapter 2. Moral Dilemmas in Fashion. J. Ha-Brookshire

Chapter 3. Sustainability [Must] Drive Fashion Design. E. Bye

Chapter 4. Fibers and Materials: What is Fashion Made of? H. Cao

Chapter 5. Stealing Fashion Designs. S. Marcketti& & H. Erdahl

PART 2 – The Dangers of Making Fashion

Chapter 6. Fashion: An Unrecognized Contributor to the Climate Change.  K. Hiller & M. LeHew

Chapter 7. Domestic vs. offshore sourcing. T. Chi 

Chapter 8. A Look at Labor Issues in Manufacture of Apparel through the Perspective of Human Trafficking and Modern-Day Slavery. H Warren & M. Dickson

Chapter 9. Exodus to Elsewhere: Exploring the Effects of Fashion Industry Globalization on Local Communities. N. Hodges

PART 3 – The Dangers of Consuming Fashion

Chapter 10. Fashion [Over]Consumption. S. Manchiraju & S. Diddi

Chapter 11. Taking offense: A discussion of fashion, appropriation, and cultural insensitivity. D. Green & S. Kaiser 

Chapter 12. Striving to Fit In. K. Reddy-Best

Chapter 13. Pain in Fashion. E. McKinney & E. Sanders.

PART 4 – The Dangers of Caring for and Disposing Fashion

Chapter 14. A Consumer Perspective on Clothing Care: Economic, Environmental and Social Costs. P. Norum & R. Lomonaco-Benzing

Chapter 15. Disposing Fashion: From the Ugly… J. Hawley & E. Karpova

Chapter 16. Disposing Fashion 2: ….To the Good. J. Hawley & E. Karpova

Chapter 17. Conclusion. E. Karpova & S. Marcketti

Appendix C

Sustainable Consumption and Production:

 Cluster Annual Report 2017

Members

Melody LeHew

Sonali Diddi

Jana Hawley

Cluster Description

The PURPOSE of this cluster is to advance systemic change in Fiber Textiles and Clothing (FTC) toward greater Sustainable Consumption and Production (SCP). Our work will be focused on establishing networks of interdisciplinary scholars whom will create and disseminate new knowledge and develop programs of action.  Our aims include:

• To identify and establish a network of stakeholders (e.g. industry practitioners, consumers, legislators, non-profit NGOs, academics).
• To discover pathways toward greater sustainable consumption and production and greater system resilience that will promote human wellbeing.

We anticipate our first coordinating activities will include:

• To identify knowledge gaps in conceptual and theoretical understanding related to FTC and sustainable consumption and to formulate most urgent research questions to advance change.
• To identify knowledge gaps in conceptual and theoretical understanding related to FTC and sustainable production and to formulate most urgent research questions to advance change.
• To investigate the conceptual and theoretical relationships between strong SCP and greater system resilience.

Benefit Statement

Networking with a variety of stakeholders is the primary benefit. However, we expect participants of this cluster will also benefit through an expansion of collaborative partnerships. Partnerships will be formed around interests and research questions that emerge. Funding opportunities will be shared among the network and supportive assistance provided.

Action Plan

Initial plans to recruit members include: Cluster coordinators will submit a special topics session abstract to be delivered at International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) regarding the topic and invite new members at the end of presentation. In addition, cluster coordinators will identify and personally reach out to colleagues that may be a good fit with the network. 

Appendix D

Demographic Driven Marketplace:

Cluster Annual Report 2017

Members

Pam Norum

Scarlett Wesley

JuYoung Lee

Cluster description

• The demographic driven marketplace cluster facilitates research addressing how the marketplace can better enhance the well-being of different demographic groups.

• The demographic driven marketplace cluster facilitates research on how to enhance the well-being of different demographic groups by better meeting their needs in the marketplace.

• The demographic driven marketplace cluster facilitates research addressing how the marketplace can better meet the needs of different consumer segments to enhance human well-being.

• The demographic driven marketplace cluster includes consumer segments that can be defined based on shifts in population characteristics, and overlooked target markets such as:

Demographic, Psychographic & Lifestyle Trends

Age

• Baby Boomers
• Millenials

Race/Ethnicity/Culture

• Hispanics
• African Americans
• Cultural awareness & differences

Income

• Economic disadvantages

Gender/Sexual Orientation

• LGBTQI (Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Transgender, Queer, and Intersex)

Lifestyle/Psychographic

• Travel and tourism
• Leisure activities
• Social media
• Local marketplace purchasing

Physiological

• Obesity
• Special Needs/Disabilities
• Special accommodations/mental health

Shopping Behavior

• Changes in shopping preferences
• Use of different purchasing platforms
• Differences in shopping preferences by group
• Changes in communication patterns

Benefits to participants

• Collaboration & cross-disciplinary research opportunities
• Potential Funding/Grant opportunities for future research study
• Multi-state research group
• Sharing of information and advancements in research area
• Proactive research development
• Network with others who have similar interest

Action Plan

Initial plans to recruit members include: Cluster coordinators will submit a special topics session abstract to be delivered at International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) regarding the topic and invite new members at the end of presentation. In addition, cluster coordinators will identify and personally reach out to colleagues that may be a good fit with the network. 

Hawley, J. M., Ellis, J., Wesley, S., LeHew, M., Damhorst, M., Jasper, C., Hegland, J., Wu, J., and Bye, E. (November, 2016). Nuances of federal grant writing. Panelists: Chattarman, V., Ha-Brookshire, J., Karpova, E., LeHew, M. The Nuances of Federal Grant Writing. Special Topics session, 2017 International Textile and Apparel Association conference, Vancouver, BC.

Ha-Brookshire, J., Freeman, C., Kim, J., McAndrews, L., Norum, P., Jin, B., Karpova, E., LeHew, M., Marcketti, S. (2016-2017). Development of Case Studies for Morally Responsible Agricultural Product Supply Chain Education (MoRAPSCE). National Institute of Food and Agriculture: Higher Education Challenge Grants Program. $30,000.

Ha-Brookshire, J., McAndrews, L., Kim, J., Freeman, C., Jin, B., Norum, P., LeHew, M., Hassal, L., Karpova, E., & Marcketti, S. (2017). Exploration of morally challenging business situations within the context of corporate sustainability in the global textile and apparel industry. Sustainability, 9, 1-17. doi:10.3390/su909164